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The framework I wish I'd had, plus what actually changed as my collection grew.
I didn't get into fragrance the way most people seem to. There was no YouTube rabbit hole, no "top 10 colognes for men" video at 2am. A colleague at work pulled a handful of sample vials out of her purse one afternoon and talked me through each one. Something about the way she described them, the stories behind the scent houses, the way certain notes shifted on skin. That flipped a switch in my head.
Before that moment, I was wearing whatever I'd discovered on my dad's shelf as a kid Bvlgari Black or my childhood signature DKNY New York. A couple of basic designer picks I'd had recommended to me over the years and YSL L'Home (Still my most complimented fragrance ever) . I ordered my first sample set from Libertine not long after that conversation, fell hard for Ganymede by Marc-Antoine Barrois, and it snowballed from there. 58 bottles later, here we are.
I did sample Dior Sauvage at one point, specifically because I like to make my own mind up about things. It's not a bad scent. But I'm not a loud club guy and I don't want to smell like everyone else in the room, hell I went down a watch rabbit hole in my twenties for the same reason. That realisation was actually pretty formative for how I built my collection.
What I want to share here is the framework I wish someone had given me on day one. Five slots that cover your bases. For each one, I'll tell you what I'd recommend if you're just starting out, what I actually wear now, and what that shift says about how your taste develops over time.
This is the fragrance you reach for on autopilot, the Easy Reach. Work, errands, casual catch-ups. It needs to be versatile, inoffensive, and something you genuinely enjoy putting on five days a week.
Light, clean, fresh. This was one of my all-time favourite daily drivers and my most-worn bottle before I fell down the rabbit hole. I've been complimented on it more than once, and it was historically one of my signature daytime scents. It doesn't last long, but it's fresh, clean and I love it. For more modern alternatives, is a solid pick, and if your budget allows, is a classic for a reason. is worth a look too if you want something warmer.
Tap through to explore each scent in the ScentGraph app.
Written by
Blake
Roja Elysium and Ex Nihilo Blue Talisman are my current daily rotation. I also wear Amouage Reflection Man a lot, which is "reflected" (sorry not sorry) in the huge dent that bottle has taken. Light, classy, masculine, clean. Like a fresh out of the shower scent. The jump from YSL L'Homme to Reflection Man isn't as dramatic as you'd think. They occupy the same space in my wardrobe, just at different levels of complexity and... -Cough- price points.
Magnetic. Confident. The kind of scent that makes someone lean in a little closer. This slot tends to skew warmer, sweeter, and more intimate than your daily driver.
YSL La Nuit de L'Homme. This was my nighttime staple for a long time. Cardamom and lavender, genuinely magnetic. My ex complimented it numerous times, which is about as strong an endorsement as you can get. Valentino Born in Roma Intense and Azzaro The Most Wanted are solid alternatives in the same vein.
Tom Ford Tuscan Leather. Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede and B683. MFK Oud Satin Mood makes an appearance for movie nights when you're in close proximity on the couch. That one is genuinely one of my all-time favourites. It creates a perfect bubble of scent that just swallows you up. Funnily enough out of the apartment Oud Satin Mood is yet to make an appearance, It probably never will.
The shift: From safe and sweet to confident and complex. That's what happens when your palate develops. You stop asking "will they like this?" and start asking "does this feel like me?"
Living in Perth, this one matters. You do not want to be the person wearing a heavy oud in 35-degree heat. Keep it fresh, light, and citrus-forward.
Something citrus-forward and breezy. YSL Cologne Bleue became my after-gym scent and it's perfectly good for hot days too. Casamorati Mefisto is another one I'd point beginners toward. Citrus, light, smooth, inoffensive, refreshing. You can't really go wrong with either.
Tom Ford Neroli Portofino layered with Soleil Blanc (AKA the Fragrance Flan Special). It's this gorgeous Mediterranean citrus base with a warm, creamy coconut finish. Also Tom Ford Mandarino di Amalfi and Roja Elysium (which does double duty as a daily driver in warmer months). Nishane Wulong Cha is another option I reach for. It's tea-based, sophisticated, and feels like something a grown-up would wear on a Sunday morning.
Perth winters are mild compared to most places, but cold weather is still when you get to pull out the heavy hitters. Rich, warm, enveloping scents that sit close to the skin and reward anyone who gets near enough.
Kilian Angel's Share Cognac, cinnamon, oak. Smells like walking into a fancy cocktail bar. It's crowd-pleasing and easy to love. Xerjoff Naxos is another brilliant entry point. Honey, tobacco, lavender, vanilla. Like a blanket by a fireplace. Both of these are the kind of fragrances that make people ask what you're wearing.
Budget pick: Lattafa Khamrah. Under $30 and it genuinely competes with bottles ten times the price. I own it. Khamrah Qahwa is worth a look too.
BDK Rouge Smoking Extrait. Light, slightly smokey, spice, creamy powdery, sweet. Room 1015 Cherry Punk, which on skin is lovely. The sharp notes die off and it settles into this sensual cherry. I'm 39, an ex-goth, I gravitate toward small bars, and I have a thing for darker cherry scents that sit well on my skin. I've also got a bottle of Parfums de Marly Althair on the way, and Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille and Nishane Ani both live on the winter shelf.
This is the one you can't plan for. It's not defined by occasion or season. It's the fragrance that just feels like you. My advice? Don't rush this slot. Let it fill itself.
Mizensir Legend Leather. I don't usually like leather scents, but I like this one, it was also the first leather scent that made me want to revisit them. It's kind of sweet, smooth. Genuinely really like this one. D'Orsay Flower Lust. Beautiful, sweet, floral, smooth, gorgeous. These aren't on anyone's top 10 lists and that's the point. The wildcard slot is where your collection stops looking like a recommendation list and starts looking like a personality.
Other wildcards from my shelf: MAB Ganymede (metallic, futuristic, the one that started it all for me), Room 1015 Cherry Punk (doing double duty from the winter slot, I have a lot of Room 1015 now so they're doing something right), and Versace Crystal Noir Parfum, A scent marketed towards women, but on my skin it smells amazing. Remember scent doesn't have a gender, if it did I'd have never tried Rose/Floral scents or discovered this gem.
My 58 bottles include YSL ($80-120), Lattafa (under $30), and Xerjoff/MFK ($200+). Price doesn't determine how often I wear something. Some of my most-reached-for bottles are the cheapest ones on the shelf. Start with designer, explore niche when you're ready and your nose knows what it likes. There's no shame in having a $25 Lattafa sitting next to a $400 Roja. If it smells good on you, it smells good on you.
Budget (under $200): Lattafa Khamrah plus a solid designer EDT like YSL L'Homme or La Nuit de L'Homme. Two bottles, two slots covered, change left over.
Mid ($300-600): Mix designer staples with a couple of smaller or niche-adjacent brands. This is where Casamorati, some Tom Ford private blends on discount, and houses like Room 1015 live.
Premium ($600+): Niche houses like MFK, Xerjoff, Roja, Amouage. But please develop your palate first. Spending $350 on a bottle you picked because a YouTuber told you to is not the move.
My collection went from YSL L'Homme and La Nuit de L'Homme to Tuscan Leather and Oud Satin Mood. The five slots I've outlined here are a starting framework, not a final destination. What fills each slot will change as your taste develops, as you sample more, and as you figure out what actually works on your skin versus what smells good on a test strip.
One thing that's helped me track that evolution is logging my Scent of the Day. Looking back over weeks and months, you start to see patterns. Which slots you reach for most. Which bottles are gathering dust. Which ones you keep coming back to even when you told yourself you'd rotate more. That data tells you more about your taste than any review ever could.
Track your Scent of the Day at ScentGraph and watch your fragrance wardrobe take shape over time. The patterns will surprise you. We're in early beta, so hit the waitlist and I'll give you early access the second it opens.
Start with the framework. Fill it in with whatever excites you. Let it evolve. That's the whole game.
Happy sampling.
Blake, Founder | ScentGraph